魅力城市～銀川

十一月 05, 2008, 16:12

封面故事─西夏故城

銀川是個美麗而神秘的城市，蒼茫大漠之中的綠洲。沒來到銀川之前，很難在腦海中勾勒出她的面貌。

想像中，身處沙漠地帶的銀川應該也是個黃沙敝天，除了道路與建築物之外，一片土黃色的城市。萬萬沒想到，當飛機接近銀川市，透過窗戶往下望，竟然有湖，有河道、溝渠密佈，一片蒼翠，出了銀川河東機場，往市區的半路上，竟然有一大片盛開的荷花，與想像中的一片黃沙大不相同。原來銀川佔盡地利，雖然位在西北，卻在西邊的賀蘭山與東邊的黃河的孕育下成為塞上江南。

銀川是個歷史悠久的城市，雖然在我們熟悉的歷史上對銀川的記載並不是太多。中國的許多城市在介紹自己的時候，都會提到，在幾百萬年前當地就已經有人類居住活動的痕跡；不過這對觀光客來說，並不具有大的意義。但是銀川不一樣，銀川市區的東邊，越過由南往北奔流的黃河，有一個舉世聞名的考古發掘遺跡—水洞溝。這裡是中國舊石器時代研究的起點，國際考古學界無人不知的重要發掘遺跡。

水洞溝位於黃河東岸的支流旁邊，擁有相當深厚的黃土沖積層；這裡是中國第一個發現舊石器時代遺跡的地方，長期以來因為中國始終沒有發現舊石器時代人類活動的遺跡，所以國際考古學界一直有個錯誤的認知，當時他們認為中國沒有舊石器時代。但是1923年，法國古生物學家桑志華和德日進在水洞溝進行了第一次發掘。五年後布勒、步日耶、桑志華和德日進共同發表了震驚世界的考古報告《中國的舊石器》；水洞溝的發現正式開啟了中國舊石器時代研究的序幕。更令人稱奇的是，水洞溝發現的石器竟然與歐洲大陸發現的石器驚人的相似，具備同樣的結構與特徵，這究竟是巧合，還是有其他尚未被發現的關聯，目前仍然沒有定論。

無獨有偶的，銀川市西北邊的賀蘭山裡，又發現了許多的遠古時代壁畫。賀蘭山。要不是岳飛的滿江紅，恐怕大多數人都不知道他的存在。

在賀蘭山岩壁上發現的這些岩畫，與歐洲、非洲遠古壁畫相似而別具一格，散佈在整個賀蘭山區。其中以賀蘭山脈北邊的山口—「賀蘭口」的壁畫最具代表性。

根據專家的研究指出，這些刻畫在岩壁上的壁畫，內容相當豐富，包括放牧、狩獵、祭祀、爭戰、娛舞……等生活中的事件，以及羊、牛、馬、駱駝、老虎、豹子……等各種動物的象形圖案以及各種抽象符號，線條簡單抽象但是特徵明顯；關於岩畫的創作時間則還沒有定論，但是大多數學者認為最早的部分不會早於新石器時代晚期，而岩畫的創作則可能一直延續到宋、元、西夏時期。也就是說這些岩畫的創作從距今5000～4000年前開始，一直延續到距今距今900～800年前。

這些當時羌、熏育、匈奴、鮮卑、突厥、回鶻、吐蕃、黨項……等北方少數民族先民的創作，與世界上其他地區的古代壁畫在圖案上有共同的地方，但同時也帶有當地的特徵，表現出原始部落的自然崇拜、生殖崇拜、圖騰崇拜、祖先崇拜……等的文化內涵。

賀蘭山，自古就是北方遊牧民族繁衍生息的地方，東北西南走向的賀蘭山，更是東西方交通必經的孔道。但是想翻越長達200公里、平均寬度大約有30公里、平均海拔大約2000～3000公尺左右的賀蘭山，並不是件容易的事。於是許多東西向穿越賀蘭山的河谷就成為穿越賀蘭山的捷徑，這些山口從遠古以來就是先民活動的地區，岩畫也大部份分佈在這些山口的兩側岩壁上；除了山脈北邊的賀蘭口之外，最特別的應該要算拜寺口。

拜寺口在賀蘭口南邊大約30公里左右，現在這個山口以西夏時期修建的雙塔聞名，號稱「拜寺口雙塔」。這兩座塔基本上維持了唐式密簷塔的外型，但是塔身上的色彩豐富，裝飾的雕刻與圖案與漢式佛教裝飾圖案完全不同，帶有邊疆民族獨特的色彩與造型。

拜寺口的建築雖然只剩下雙塔，但是附近卻隨處可以看到殘存的建築物遺跡，其中不乏地基規模十分龐大的遺跡。根據考古學家的發掘與歷史學家的考證，拜寺口曾經輝煌一時；他曾經是神秘的西夏王國的宗教聖地，也是西夏國王離宮別苑的所在地。這裡曾經屹立著規模龐大的「五台山寺」、「佛祖寺」……。同時也見有西夏國王的行宮。但是隨著西夏王國、黨項族的一夕消失，拜寺口也隨之荒廢。在時間與西北風沙的摧殘之下，今天只剩下元朝時期曾經重新修繕過的兩座佛塔，掩映在落日餘暉之中。

歷史上對於西夏這個統治中國西北地區接近二百年的王國始終沒有清楚、完整的記載；而西夏國一夕之間消失無蹤，又留下了許多歷史的迷團與神秘的傳說。

1972年，銀川西邊正在動工修建機場，挖地基的時候，挖出了一些破碎陶片，這本來也沒什麼奇怪的；但是，眼尖的施工人員在這些破碎陶片之中，發現了一些上面刻有奇怪文字的破片。這些文字乍看之下像是中國的文字，筆劃、結構看起來都像中文，但是每一個字都看不懂，在中國文字的各種古代，近代書體之中從來沒有見過。這個發現促使施工人員趕緊通知寧夏博物館，請他們派專家過來鑑別。

沒想到，這幾塊破碎的方磚，卻意外打開了神秘西夏王國的大門。專家們判斷這些天書一樣的文字就是失傳已久的西夏文字，幾塊殘破的方磚讓考古與歷史學家們欣喜若狂，隨即在發現方磚的地點展開考古挖掘；果然在地面下發現一個墓室，出土了一部份壁畫，陶器碎片，以及工藝品。考古人員跟著擴大探勘範圍，最後在距離銀川市西邊大約30公里的這片沙漠裡，一座又一座高大的黃土堆陸續現身，經過挖掘、分析、研判，確定這裡就是西夏王國的皇家陵園所在地。方圓53平方公里的區域內，一共發現了9座帝陵，以及上百座陪葬墓。但是這些帝陵都被破壞過，幾乎每一座陵墓的地宮都曾經被挖開，挖掘規模之大不像是盜墓，這又是什麼緣故？

原來西夏，最後滅亡於成吉思汗的蒙古鐵騎，但是蒙古大軍在最終擊敗西夏王國之前，曾經六度發兵圍攻銀川，其中兩次還是由成吉思汗親自指揮；最後一次蒙古大軍圍困銀川長達六個月，付出慘重的代價才逼迫西夏投降。當西夏同意投降，但是還沒有正式投降之前，成吉思汗過世，蒙古大軍密不發喪，怕西夏反悔。而當西夏投降，蒙古大軍進入銀川之後，即依照憤怒的成吉思汗的遺命，屠城滅族。所以西夏王國以及建立西夏王國的黨項族，一夕之間在歷史上消失。而這些帝陵據說就是被蒙古軍隊所破壞。

建立於西元1038年並延續至西元1227年的西夏王國，也就因為突然間消失無蹤，而變成一個歷史上的神秘王國。

近年來根據學者的研究與出土文物、資料的對照參考。西夏王國的神秘面紗正逐漸被揭開。「西夏學」也跟著成為一門顯學，關於西夏的歷史、藝術、文字、社會、政治、文獻，考古……等等在國際上受到普遍的重視。西夏，是黨項族拓拔部所建立的王國。他的歷史可以一直追溯到唐朝初年。當時黨項族日漸強大，其中拓跋赤辭投降唐朝，賜姓李、封「平西公」。他把族人遷移到慶州（在今天寧夏回族自治區）定居。唐朝末年末拓跋思恭協助平定黃巢之亂有功，再次賜姓李、封「夏國公」。從此拓跋思恭以及他的李姓後代成為當地的藩鎮勢力。

宋朝初年趙匡胤削減藩鎮兵權，引起黨項族李氏不滿。雖然他們一開始服從宋朝的命令，但矛盾不斷加劇。1032年李德明之子李元昊繼承夏國公爵位，就開始準備脫離宋朝。首先他放棄李姓，自稱嵬名氏。第二年以避父諱為由改宋朝的「明道」年號為「顯道」，西夏開始有自己的年號。隨後幾年他建造宮殿，確定官制，規定官民服侍，建立兵制，創造黨項族自己的文字—「西夏文」也稱為「蕃字」。到了西元1038年，李元昊稱帝，國號「大夏」，因為他的位置在西邊，所以被稱為「西夏」。當時的西夏統治今天寧夏，甘肅，新疆、青海、內蒙古以及陝西的部分地區，疆域方圓數千里，幅員遼闊。並且在中期與金、宋分庭抗禮、末期與元、宋鼎足而立。

黨項族過去主要以畜牧和狩獵維生，在宋夏「慶曆和議」之後，從漢族學習到農業技術，農業迅速發展。西夏建國時，農業生產已成為西夏經濟的主力。

西夏建國之後，景宗李元昊更重視農業生產，大力興建水利工程，並親自主持修築從今天青銅峽到平羅的灌溉水渠，世稱「昊王渠」。從此興慶府、靈州一帶，一直是西夏王國糧食的主要產地。而根據西夏的傳統也設立了專門負責畜牧業管理的群牧司。

西夏的畜牧地區主要分佈在橫山以北和河西走廊，以羊、馬、駱駝、牛為主，也有驢、騾、豬……等等。由於農、牧業發展，生產力提高，西夏的手工業和商業也隨之發展。西夏的冶煉、採鹽、製鹽、磚瓦、陶瓷、紡織、造紙、印刷、釀造、金銀木器製作……等手工業也都具有一定的規模和工藝水準。

佛教東傳甘肅之後，西夏內部開始創造出他獨有的佛教藝術文化。今天內蒙古自治區的百眼窯石窟寺，是西夏佛教壁畫藝術的寶庫。在額濟納旗黑城、綠城子中發現的西夏文佛經、釋迦佛塔、彩塑觀音像……等，都是西夏學的重大發現。大慶二年（1036年），西夏消滅瓜州、沙州的歸義軍政權，將敦煌地區納入自己的勢力範圍。西夏的民族特色也融入了敦煌莫高窟的石刻之中。此外，西夏還設立了「蕃字院」和「漢字院」，使西夏百姓「通蕃漢字」；西夏還設立「蕃學」和「太學」。在西夏統治者的帶動之下，黨項族是同時期接受漢文化比較多的一個西北民族。

從西夏王陵發現之後，神秘的西夏文字終於陸續被解讀出來，陸續出現的文獻資料，讓我們逐漸了解這一個突然消失的神秘民族與王國。而銀川，正是當年西夏國都，西夏文化的核心所在。沙漠中突然湧現的皇陵遺跡，拜寺口附近的大規模寺院與宮殿建築遺跡，西夏博物館裡混雜了唐文化，宋文化，以及西夏本身文化的珍貴收藏品，西夏錢幣，西夏白瓷，琉璃魔羯魚、琉璃迦陵頻伽、西夏文心經……；西夏城的盛大西夏樂舞演出，勾勒出西下歷史文化的大略輪廓，同時也讓我們對這個仍然有待發現的神秘王國，產生濃厚興趣。

今天的銀川市，自唐朝以來稱為「懷遠」，北宋時期，黨項族首領李德明將由靈州（今天的靈武）遷至懷遠，並且改名為「興州」。李德明之子李元昊再改為「興慶府」。宋朝寶元元年（西元1038年），李元昊在興慶府即皇帝位，建大夏國，就以興慶府為首府。元朝滅了西夏之後設置「寧夏府路」。明朝則設「寧夏府」，是明朝北方邊疆的防禦體系「九邊重鎮」之一。

為什麼西夏會選擇銀川？銀川西邊倚靠賀蘭山，東邊有黃河向北奔流。在一片沙漠之中，銀川有賀蘭山可踞，有黃河水可供灌溉，是個有山有水的好地方；加上土地肥沃，適合農業發展。而且黃河的水量龐大，銀川的灌溉系統不需要修建水壩、水庫，黃河的自流灌溉就足足有餘。

黃河的幾次改道，在銀川留下了許多的湖泊、溼地，古代有「七十二連湖」之說，現在則有「塞上湖城」之稱。比較著名的有鳴翠湖、閱海、鶴泉湖、寶湖、西湖……等等。這些沙漠中的溼地長滿了一人多高的蘆葦，湖泊中魚類資源豐富，為從北方南遷的候鳥提供了絕佳的棲息地。據統計，銀川的濕地野生動物有一百五十多種，包括國家一級保護動物黑鸛、中華秋沙鴨、白尾海雕、小鴇、大鴇，國家二級保護動物大天鵝……等十九種，以及自治區級保護動物24種。

整個銀川所展現出來的風情，既有大漠黃沙漫漫、沙丘起伏的壯麗景觀，又有江南水鄉渠道縱橫、湖泊處處的婉約景緻，特別是秋季候鳥成群而來，更是賞鳥的絕佳去處。

在銀川東邊，黃河東岸，離水洞溝遺址不遠，有一座明朝屯兵的堡壘—「紅山堡」。明朝在銀川東邊修建的長城又稱為「河東牆」，建於明朝成化八年（西元1472年），也稱為「東大邊」、「橫城大邊」。西起橫城渡口以北、黃河岸邊的黃沙嘴，往東經過水洞溝、紅山堡、清水營，過鹽池縣到陝西定邊縣鹽場堡，全長約400公里，長城高三丈，寬兩丈，可行駛馬車。駐守的士兵常年在長城頂上往來，軍事物資也在長城上運輸。按照明朝長城的修建制度，每30公里設一城，每15公里設一堡，紅山堡就是這樣的屯兵城堡。除了城牆之外一無所有的紅山堡，最近卻大出風頭，因為紅山堡有一座奇特的「藏兵洞」。

紅山堡附近的地形複雜，地塹、峽谷錯綜複雜，地質堅硬。紅山堡裡面有一條地道，直通藏兵洞，這個藏兵洞可不是一個山洞，而是一組錯綜複雜的上下兩層地道，除了地道之外，裡面還有會議廳、指揮部、廚房、營房……等設施，最奇特獨是地道在峽谷兩邊穿行，峽谷兩側山壁上還開有像個小陽台的瞭望口，地道內部還有陷坑等機關，像這樣的藏兵洞，目前只發現銀川紅山堡這一處。現在一部份地道經過整理、維護，已經對遊客開放，但是開放的部份，還不到整個地道系統的十分之一，可見地道規模的龐大。

銀川也是回族的主要聚居地，素有回鄉之稱。銀川南邊的納家戶，就是最具有代表性的回鄉。近年來，納家戶興建了規模龐大的回鄉文化園，為遊客提供了解回族文化的最佳展示。

銀川一年四季景色變化萬千，兼具西北與江南的特色，再加上神秘的西夏王國，難怪能夠吸引眾多遊客的腳步。

（編輯&攝影：高文麒）

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