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時報旅遊十月 27, 2008, 18:32
天津小吃
在綠豆粉漿攤成的煎餅裏打個雞蛋，灑點香菜、蔥花，抹點兒甜醬、芝麻醬，裹上炸得酥脆的油條或果篦（北京叫薄脆），捲起來吃；外層煎餅柔韌，夾心的果篦酥脆帶著油香，同時還有芝麻醬、蔥花、香菜的味道。這就是天津人最普通的早餐「煎餅果子」。
煎餅果子源自於山東的煎餅，算是山東煎餅捲大蔥的變形。在天津已經有一百多年歷史。據說最初不過是一張山東大煎餅卷上一跟油條和大蔥，再刷上甜面醬而已。隨著上百年不斷的改進，最終形成了風靡天津的獨特風味小吃。
「鍋巴菜」天津方言讀成「嘎吧菜」。它的原料是「鍋巴」，但是這種「鍋巴」，並不是煮飯時鍋底焦乾的鍋巴，而是用綠豆粉專門製作的薄煎餅。「嘎巴菜」用的煎餅是也從山東傳來的，嘎巴菜和煎餅果子都屬於煎餅家族，煎餅果子用整張煎餅卷薄脆，嘎巴菜用切碎的煎餅拌上滷汁。鍋巴菜的味道好不好，關鍵就在滷汁，有些講究的人家還用雞湯來作滷汁呢！
早年天津的運河船工飯量大，把煎餅撕成片泡在滷汁裏吃正是船工的習慣。鍋巴菜不能先煮好，上桌前才把切碎的煎餅放進鹵汁裡拌兩下，煎餅一部份沾了滷汁，一部份還是乾的，形成柔軟，爽脆兩種口感，非常好吃。
看起來黑糊糊的一碗，裡面卻藏著晶盈軟滑的豆腐腦。其實豆腐腦也就是豆花，不過天津的吃法是要澆上用木耳、金針、肉片勾的滷汁，這也是天津人常吃的早餐之一。賣豆腐腦的一定都是兩個鍋子，一個鍋子裡盛著白細的豆腐腦，另一個鍋子裡盛著香氣撲鼻的滷子。有客人要的時候，先舀一大杓豆腐腦，然後澆上滷子，灑點香菜，能吃辣的加上一小杓辣油就更香了！
燒餅夾肉也是早餐的常客，這種芝麻醬燒餅在揉麵的時候要刷上厚厚一層芝麻醬，然後反覆折疊起來讓麵跟芝麻醬層層相疊，再作成燒餅進烤爐裡烤。北方的芝麻本來就比南方的香，磨成的芝麻醬更是香氣四溢，像這樣用料地道的燒餅，一出爐真是香聞十里。燙手的芝麻醬燒餅切開，夾上兩片滷得入味的醬牛肉，最是暖老溫貧！
小時後，冬天的夜裡總能聽到巷子口傳來一聲尖銳的哨音，賣麵茶推車上總是有個燒著開水的水壺，嘶嘶往外冒的蒸氣，衝出了那一聲聲尖銳的哨音。沒想到在天津還可以吃到類似小時後的滋味。「茶湯」其實跟麵茶差不多，不過口味更豐富，裡面加的配料也更多。最特別的還是那一口大銅壺，這口銅壺就像吃火鍋的鍋子，中心燒木炭，四週燒熱水，隨持保持水溫，夥計按客人指定的口味將粉舀到碗裡，再用銅壺裡的開水一沖，灑上芝麻，花生仁，青紅絲；一碗精采的茶湯馬上就可以享用！
年糕裡面包上紅豆餡，沾上粉，下游炸成金黃酥脆，這就是天津有名的小吃「炸糕」。好吃的炸糕要皮薄而均勻，炸好後，外皮呈金黃色，既脆又酥，外皮嫩粘，內餡香甜可口。其中最有名的就是「耳朵眼炸糕」。
光緒年間，一魏姓劉的小商人在北門外「耳朵眼胡同」開了一家炸糕店。他的炸糕外皮酥脆嫩粘、內餡細膩香甜，愈來愈有名氣；人們很自然地稱他為「耳朵眼炸糕」。今天的耳朵眼炸糕已經是到天津的遊客主要的伴手禮之一。
麻花台灣也有，不過可沒「天津十八街麻花」精彩。「桂發祥麻花」又稱「十八街麻花」，與「狗不理包子」、「耳朵眼炸糕」並稱「天津三絕」。
十八街麻花在每個麻花中夾有一條由桃仁、青梅、桂花等十幾種配料調製成的「什錦餡酥條」，再和一般的麻條、白條合在一起擰成五個花，然後用花生油微火炸透。出鍋後放上冰糖、青紅絲；香甜、酥脆兼備。
這種大麻花最大的有迫擊炮的砲管那麼大！在乾燥通風處可以存放幾個月。來天津的遊客，回去時都會帶上天津大麻花，贈送親朋好友。
「崩豆」其實就是酥脆的豆子，據說是出自清朝御膳房的御用點心。「崩豆張」是天津最有名的一家專門製作各種豆類小吃的店舖。傳說崩豆張的創始人張德才在清朝御膳房細心研究，製成「糊皮正香崩豆」，受到宮廷中達官貴人的青睞，從此一舉成名。製作這種崩豆、要用外五料（桂皮、大料、茴香、蔥、鹽）和內五料（甘草、貝母、白芷、當歸、五味子），這種崩豆外形黑黃油亮外表有裂紋，猶如虎皮，嚼起來脆而不硬，五香味濃郁，清香滿口，餘味綿長。
（編輯&攝影：高文麒）
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