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時報旅遊十月 27, 2008, 15:47
解放路
從天津火車站往南，繞過世紀鐘，穿過解放橋，前面就是「天津華爾街」—解放路。這條路並不寬，沿路的法國梧桐枝葉茂密，兩旁一幢幢哥特式、羅馬式、羅曼式、日爾曼式、俄羅斯古典式……等古典西洋建築，令人目不暇給。
這裏聚集的建築，雖然外形各有特色，但是整體採用西洋古典風格，表現出莊嚴、穩重的氣勢。例如滙豐銀行建築入口處有人字山牆，柱廊凸出，兩側有高大的愛奧尼克柱，顯得華麗而肅穆。日本橫濱正金銀行採用科林斯巨柱形式，二層立面完全對稱，顯得富麗堂皇。麥加利銀行平面近似平行四邊形，穩健而莊重。中法工商銀行以正面入口為中心，向兩側沿弧線對稱排列十座科林斯巨柱，形成前廊，建築立面非常宏偉。
天津租界形成之前，解放路原本叫做「中街」，第二次鴉片戰爭之後，天津設置租界，解放路被三國租界切割成三段。從解放橋到營口道是法租界的「大法國路」，從營口道到徐州道是英租界的「維多利亞路」，從徐州道到瓊州道是德租界的「威爾遜路」。解放路的興起和上海外灘異曲同工，中街因為臨近老龍頭火車站和海河碼頭，又位於租界，所以成為外國冒險家虎視耽耽的「地王」。
天津開埠之後，已經在上海立足的外國資本家紛紛北上，1882年英國滙豐銀行率先在這裏興建大廈，其他國家的銀行緊隨其後。中街逐漸成為他們的聚集地，先後開設了麥加利銀行（今天的解放北路郵電局）、美國花旗銀行（今天的農業銀行天津分行）、中法工商銀行（今天的天津市總工會）、俄國華俄道勝銀行（今天的解放北路132號）、日本橫濱正金銀行（今天的中國銀行天津分行）、東方匯理銀行、……等等。於是這一帶逐漸成為外國銀行的集中地，一幢接一幢富麗堂皇的銀行辦公大樓，象徵外國金融企業在華北的發展。這些銀行勢力龐大，不僅操縱著天津的金融業，北洋時期甚至操縱著整個華北地區的金融。
與中街咫尺之遙的海河西岸，設有許多碼頭、貨倉；許多著名的洋行也設在這條街上，例如太古洋行（今解放北路165號）、怡和洋行（今建設銀行天津分行）、仁記洋行（今解放北路129～135號）、美豐洋行（今五金交電公司）……等等。解放路上的外國銀行就近為本國商人的進出口生意提供資金，支持外國洋行壟斷天津的進出口貿易。
它們還透過錢莊向中國商人提供貸款，並藉此推銷外國商品，廉價購買原料。以英國滙豐銀行為例，在天津建行的47年之中，它向清政府和北洋政府提供了78筆借款，累計三億三千多萬兩，並且從中獲取暴利。中街是帝國主義國家對中國進行經濟掠奪的大本營，大量的黃金、白銀源源不斷地從這裏流出。當時有人形容：「從中街流向國外的黃金和白銀可以鋪滿整條街」。
今天，解放路仍然是天津最金光閃閃的一條街道，中國人民銀行天津分行、中國工商銀行天津分行、天津證券交易中心、中國農業銀行天津分行、中國建設銀行天津分行、中國人民保險公司天津分公司、天津投資銀行、交通銀行天津證券部……等20多家金融證券機構都在解放路及其附近設立了營業部。
解放路與上海外灘不同的是，外灘面向黃浦江，只有馬路西面有一排建築，解放路卻是沿街兩邊都有整排的西洋古典建築。以建築來說沒有外灘那麼龐大，但是整體卻比外灘更具有歐洲風情，某些角度看來，真有點華爾街的感覺。近年來許多以外灘為題材的電視、電影，其實都是在天津拍攝，因為天津的發展雖然比上海晚，卻從中吸取了經驗，在城市開發中特別注意古蹟，歷史文物的保護與保存，使得解放路的整體外觀仍然維持了當年的面貌。
解放路上有一棟特別值得介紹的建築，那就是中國第一家郵局—「天津大清郵政局」，光緒元年，任職中國海關總稅務司的英國人赫德（Robert Hart）提出開辦全國郵政的建議，這個提議得到李鴻章的支持之後，光緒四年赫德指派天津海關稅務司德璀琳，以天津為中心在北京、天津、營口、煙臺和上海試辦郵政業務。經過十八年之後，郵政終於得到清朝政府的認可。1896年光緒皇帝核准建立「大清郵政局」。1898年2月2號，“天津大清郵政局”—中國第一家郵局，在大法國路海關大樓內（今天的解放北路111號）正式成立。這座巴洛克風格建築，今天還在原地。
Info
地址：天津市解放北路
公交車：93路大連道站；651路，660路，680路大同道站；651路口腔醫院站。
（編輯&攝影：高文麒）
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