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國際領隊工頭堅 Ken Worker » 北非天空下（四）突尼西亞 12/10～12/11：迦太基、突尼斯新舊雙城

十二月 17, 2009, 23:06

北非天空下（四）突尼西亞 12/10～12/11：迦太基、突尼斯新舊雙城

突尼斯（Tunis）

最終，回到首都突尼斯。造訪古代迦太基與羅馬的遺跡。這是在迦太基軍港遺址旁的一間別墅。當然，我想拍的其實是那部標緻小車。

羅馬帝國時代留下的又一壯麗建築：位於地中海邊的安東尼大浴場。真是夠了，羅馬人啊，將迦太基滅國之後在這裡極盡享受，名符其實「將自己的快樂建築在別人的痛苦上」哪。

突尼斯近郊畢爾莎山丘（Acropole de Byrsa）上的羅馬市民廣場遺址。這裡同時也是迦太基最初建國之處；後世法國人更在此建造聖路易大教堂，紀念在最後一次十字軍東征中死在北非的路易九世國王。稱得上是西方歷史非常重要的一個地點。

遙望北非之角：邦角半島（Cape Bon）。不僅是當年羅馬入侵迦太基的跳板，也是二戰時期的海陸戰場。

住在突尼斯近郊迦瑪特（Gammarth）的家庭式渡假飯店。若是用台北的地形來比喻，迦太基就像是淡水，迦瑪特則等於三芝。

同樣也有淡水捷運（誤）……這其實是突尼斯的市郊通勤列車「TGM」；坐起來雖然覺得新鮮，但要堤防混在學生乘客中的扒手。我和團員都遇上了，幸好沒有任何實質損失。

和團員們走在北非的香榭麗舍──布爾吉巴大道上。布爾吉巴（Habib Bourguiba）是領導突尼西亞脫離法國統治獨立的首任總統，也就是共和國的「國父」；從這個意義上，這條路其實就等於是台灣的「中山路」？前方的鐘塔所在地，則是紀念現任總統在1987年不流血政變的「11月7日廣場」。

同樣被列為世界文化遺產的突尼斯老城（Medina of Tunis），撇開過度商業化、琳瑯滿目的紀念品店，仍是一座極具天方夜譚魅力的迷宮。

老城中的一家較新潮的融合風格咖啡館。

我特別喜愛這張；隔著一段距離拼命按快門，終於捕捉到沒有前景（遊客）走過的一剎那。

一家典型「什麼都賣」的紀念品店。

男人們聚集著抽水菸與聊是非的一家老咖啡館。

買了其中一個水菸壺，還有菸膏與菸炭。可是不知是否是過期了，回家燃不起來呢，殘念。只能當作裝飾品了。

突尼斯新城區與舊城區的交界地標：法國門。

新城區的景觀和舊城天差地別，是19-20世紀交界的歐洲城市風格。

十分巴黎的劇院與咖啡廳。

布爾吉巴大道上的五星級飯店：El Hana International. 地點很棒，但在 Tripadvisor 上評價兩極。無論如何，是適合團體集合上車的地點。

最後一天：突尼斯的「故宮」，巴杜國家博物館（Bardo National Museum）。在門口投遞了一張寫給自己作紀念的明信片。

巴杜博物館是鄂圖曼（奧斯曼）土耳其帝國時代、突尼西亞統治者的宮殿，卻蒐藏了堪稱世界最多量、最精彩的羅馬帝國時期的馬賽克裝飾藝術；有種融合了土耳其後宮（建築）以及希臘羅馬神話與生活風格的超現實感。

臨摹馬賽克壁畫的學生側影。也有許多中學、大學生的課外教學都在此博物館中進行。

（鬆了一口氣）說是簡短、卻也欲罷不能地將突尼西亞行程的全貌以圖說的方式放上來；事實上，在這次行程的尾聲，我心中燃起蠢蠢欲動的熱情，這個遙遠的北非國家與自己之間一股莫名的連結，正在呼喚。或許有天真能為它寫本完整的書吧。

北非天空下，2009冬，突尼西亞相簿連結

※ 本次帶團行程是時報旅遊的「流浪到北非突尼西亞文明饗宴10日」，供有興趣的朋友參考。

Posted by kenworker | 靜態連結網址 | 迴響 (15) | 引用 (0) | 突尼西亞

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十二月 17, 2009, 23:06

北非天空下（四）突尼西亞 12/10～12/11：迦太基、突尼斯新舊雙城

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