鐵馬流浪記-與愛德華騎腳踏車漫遊法國羅瓦爾河

三月 18, 2009, 13:44

鐵馬流浪記單車旅行

「鐵馬流浪記」從三年前開始，組團前往法國，騎車旅行。能這樣呼朋引伴，到地球上距離我們最遠的一端去騎車，跟國內「慢活」、「樂活」、「慢食」等等觀念興起，當然有關係，因為有越來越多人，再也無法忍受蜻蜓點水「狩獵」式的旅行，於是選擇用腳踏車，以一種正好恰當的速度，操之在自己雙手的自由，來呼吸真正真實的「空氣」。

但是腳踏車畢竟只是一個工具，我們旅行，不是為了「經過」，而是要突破語言與文化的障礙來「進入」，因此我們需要一位好的翻譯，來當文化的橋樑和鑰匙。

中文流暢又熱情的愛德華，本來是一位人類學家，熟稔歷史文化，並且在美食美酒方面，家學淵源，他非常樂意用中文來分享所有法國文化中，享受人生的秘密，他就是我們兩個文化之間，最好的翻譯。

「鐵馬流浪記」典型的一天，從法國式早餐開始，接著大家各自到菜市場、麵包店、糕餅鋪、肉店、乳酪店、葡萄酒店，採購當天中午野餐的食材，然後把行李裝上支援汽車，我們只帶著隨身小背包，跨上腳踏車出發。

騎車的路線，不以效率為目標，寧可曲折也要走進優美的風景，累了就找一家小鎮的咖啡館，補充水份和酒精，到達城堡教堂等歷史古蹟，愛德華不但會解說當地的故事與背景，還會旁徵博引，介紹許多一般法國人都沒聽過的事蹟，讓旅行不會有一滿腦子的疑惑，值得入內參觀的，也準備充分的時間，慢慢地逛。

野餐是一天中重大的活動，我們不但要「到埃及就走路像個埃及人」，連飲食都要徹底嘗試。時間到了找個地方，大家把早上分別採買的食物、甜點、水果都攤開來，一起分享，愛德華會買一些一般人也許不敢嘗試的當地特產和葡萄酒，這樣進行一個「法國式的野餐」。

這樣的旅行，全程都不吃中國餐！每天晚餐，一定是慢慢地吃地方料理，其中有幾天，還會吃「米其林指南」上面推薦的餐廳，而且遵照法國規矩，無可避免地搭配葡萄酒，愛德華會在餐桌上，解說當天的菜色與葡萄酒，和背後的故事，過去一起去的朋友，都非常歡喜這樣的安排。晚上住在小鎮裡，可能沒有電梯，但是絕對舒服、難忘的小旅館，安靜地睡去。

「鐵馬流浪記」這樣的旅行方式，我們稱之為第二代自助旅行，多年來流行的自助旅行、自由行、團體旅行的優點，我們都不忌諱，擇優吸收運用，因此能走得更遠、更深入，且透過知識，了解我們所見到的一切，包括背景、文化、有優點在哪裡等等，讓瞎子摸象，至少要摸到一整隻象，也讓我們自己，以當地人的方式體驗生活，與遇到的新鮮世界互動交流，從而改變我們自己，這才是旅行最大的收穫。

今年「鐵馬流浪記」又要走出新方向，前往法國南部普羅旺斯的「南運河」與「呂貝宏」，那裡才是【山居歲月】裡面幽靜的真正普羅旺斯。另外我們還有一個以葡萄酒為名的環法壯舉，因為艾德華也是「學學文創」葡萄酒與乳酪的講師，他這次把教室搬到法國各地現場，實境教學，幾乎踏遍所有重要的葡萄酒產區

還有最後最壓軸的，沿著地中海，從西班牙開始騎車，接著坐渡船穿越地中海，到北非的摩洛哥繼續騎車，直到卡薩布蘭加結束，摩洛哥的治安沒有問題，好玩極了，但是過去應該從來沒有台灣人，在那邊騎腳踏車旅行吧？

這些旅行，都是由時報旅遊主辦，由愛德華設計行程、挑選餐廳、小旅館，並且親自現場導遊，這樣旅行團該有的準備與服務一樣不缺，自助旅行或自由行的逍遙也享受到了，並且全程都有活的百科全書在一旁導覽，這就是我們所說的「第二代自助旅行」。

Posted by edward | 靜態連結網址 | 迴響 (11) | 引用 (1) | 玩家行程

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