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時報旅遊元月 15, 2009, 17:15
黑色的復活節遊行
糟糕，我忘了今天是『黑色星期五』！
在熙來攘往的『溫貝多一世大道』上穿梭，竟然找不到落腳之處！最後在城外的民宿媽媽急電友人，終於在古城區裡發現僅餘的空房。內部的設備很陽春，卻有間哥德式天花板的寬大餐廳；不過這幢老建築的外觀是很優美的，而且座落於比市區還高一點的斜坡上，古意盎然的連續階梯很容易使人產生羅曼蒂克的幻想，落難的公主與俠義的王子應該要在此相遇…
然而一陣撲鼻的清香反而戰勝腦海裡的胡思亂想，原來是石梯旁的柑橘花哪！這味道真教人心曠神怡，加上下面的咖啡館人聲鼎沸，什麼公主王子之類的，馬上拋到九霄雲外！
十年前搭火車前來，就直接住在山下的『納克索斯花園』(Giardini Naxos)。據說這裡是希臘人在西西里島土地上所建立的第一個殖民地，那是西元前735年的事情了。今天這裡是一處非常寧靜的小漁村，記得當時便是由此沿著崖邊崎嶇的山路，在六月的驕陽燒烤之下，爬了半個多小時才到達陶米納可愛的市中心，而且沿途只有雜草與蜥蜴相伴！不過我卻擁有開門就可走向大海的優勢，尤其是清晨時刻，除了一名黝黑的年輕小漁夫躲在大岩石背後探頭探腦以外，整片沙灘全屬我所有，湛藍的海水清澈透明極了！這次為了感受陶米納的夜晚，才會改乘巴士前來，誰知卻碰上復活節的重頭戲，全世界的人都跑來這座西西里最美麗的度假城市，害我要住在市中心的打算差點泡湯！
其實每年自四月起，直到十月，陶米納便淹沒在遊客潮裡。或許是這裡宜人的氣候使然，然而這座發展於山腰平台上的小城，卻因地理位置的關係，擁有絕佳的景觀。最原始的奠基者是早期的土著希庫利人，後來又歷經希臘殖民與羅馬統治，今天的主要市容則是典型的中古世紀山城模式；不過東西狹長的陶米納還有一個加分的優點，那就是地處極西端的『古希臘劇場』。在義大利有很多希臘羅馬的遺跡，不是被包圍在後來發展的新市區裡，就是遠遠地隔離在郊外；陶米納的考古園區既獨立、又和小巧的市中心連成一氣，在曲折的窄巷中鑽煩了，就可馬上轉移陣地，到寬闊的廢墟裡感受豪氣的古意，而且這座劇場因著當初對地勢的聰明規劃，既可眺望地中海，又可欣賞冒煙的艾特納大火山(Etna)，視野之佳，絕對更勝於傍崖而建的高級旅館！
希臘式的劇場是半圓形的，和羅馬式的圓形競技場不同，因為在這裡表演的是戲劇，而非真人格鬥，所以它需要舞台。在陶米納的這座希臘古劇場已經兩千三百歲了，所以舞台背面的裝飾牆剛好在中央部分頹個缺口，大海的藍便肆無忌憚地闖進來。有個無線上網的廣告，就是以此為拍攝背景，遠古遺跡與現代科技的對比結合，教人印象深刻；不過義大利人有個更高竿的作法，那就是仲夏夜在此舉辦設計師的服裝發表會！退去陽光後的古劇場，時空的感覺很迷離，然而高挑的模特兒穿著卻很前衛…所以入夜之後的陶米納，會悄悄地啟動它的時光機器…
這次『排除萬難』住到市中心，所以『夜遊』是我的主要目的。梳洗完後，跳下充滿橘花香的浪漫階梯，迎接我的卻是無聲無息的大遊行…對了！今天是『聖禮拜五』，耶穌被釘上十字架死亡的日子！信徒們會抬著由十字架上放下來的耶穌在市區遊行，後面則跟著哀痛的聖母。原本熱鬧非凡的溫貝多大道點上火炬，所有的商店全都熄燈，大家靜默地等待隊伍通過；死去的耶穌由男人來抬，而聖母則是女人們來扛，她們全都身穿黑衣，披著黑頭巾，而跟在後面的龐大黑暗娘子軍，人手一根蠟燭，肅穆地前行…原來這些都是來還願之人！南部義大利的宗教信仰極為虔誠，既使開車經過教堂，都要舉手在胸前畫十呢！
有學者認為南義的『聖人』太多，使得這裡的居民對貧窮容易藉由宗教獲得精神上的慰藉，而不知積極改善，以致於和北義產生經濟上的差異；今晚陶米納的時光隧道讓我見識到，要拔除這些『聖人』，可不是件易事！
或許隨著歐化腳步的到來，某些傳統會逐漸式微，不過在西西里島，這改變應該不會太快，連兩千年前的泛希臘古風，至今仍悠悠吹拂著！這座島有它的韌性與堅持，看似柔軟，卻難以征服，因為同時擁有多重的面貌，讓人不知如何來抓它…就像陶米納的夜，十年前明月高掛，而今天卻籠罩在模糊的山嵐裡。
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